New climbing routes
Discover the latest climbing routes opened by our guides
The mountain guides of GardenaGuides are always exploring new rock lines and alpine challenges. This section showcases recently established routes, complete with topos, photos and detailed info. Check back often to discover what's new and be inspired by the cliffs of Val Gardena.
Via Camilla was opened between autumn 2024 and spring 2025 on the east face of the Ciampanil de Val, in Vallunga, Val Gardena. It’s a line I discovered and climbed alone, at my own pace, trusting the rock and my instincts. The route is dedicated to my daughter Camilla.
The rock is dolomitic – solid and beautiful in parts, fragile and demanding in others. The style is classic Dolomite: it requires intuition, experience, and commitment. The route consists of 7 pitches, with a total length of about 250 meters, and a maximum difficulty of 7+ or 7- / A1. Protection is traditional, with belay stations on resin anchors, and pitons along the pitches.
Approach: From the Vallunga parking lot (Selva di Val Gardena), follow the path for about 25 minutes toward the Ciampanil de Val. Ascend a grassy slope to the base of the wall. The route starts about 50 meters to the right of Via Lisa, at the bottom of a clear gully. To the left, another new line can be found: Via Gaia, graded 7b, dedicated to Camilla’s sister.
Descent: Do not rappel down the route. Use the equipped abseil line of the Ciampanil de Val. Two 50-meter ropes are required.
Recommended gear: 12 quickdraws, small to medium cams. No hammer or slings needed.
A quiet thought for my daughter Camilla, to whom this route is dedicated.
Armin Senoner
👉 In foto: MagicSucks (rosso), Libertà per Sergio (blu) e Via Coa (turchese).
Via Gaia is a newly opened route on the east face of Ciampanil de Val, in Vallunga.
A climb opened without haste and dedicated to my daughter Gaia.
The route is about 240 meters long over 8 pitches, with a maximum difficulty of 7b+. The climbing is technical and athletic on generally good Dolomite rock. The line follows vertical slabs and slightly overhanging walls with varied and sustained climbing. The route is equipped with bolts, and the belays consist of two anchor points connected by chains.
Access: from the Vallunga parking area (Selva di Val Gardena), follow the trail towards Ciampanil de Val for about 25 minutes. Climb the grassy slope up to the base of the wall. The start is located between the routes Carmaia and Camilla, immediately to the left of the latter.
Descent: rappel descent using the equipped abseil stations of Ciampanil de Val. Descent is possible either with two 50-meter ropes or with a single 60-meter rope.
Recommended equipment: 14 quickdraws, single 60-meter rope.
“Dedicated to my daughter Gaia.”
Via Carmaia – New Route in Vallunga (Val Gardena)
by Armin Senoner
Via Carmaia is a new route on Ciampanil de Val, in the heart of Vallunga in Val Gardena. The route was opened solo by Armin Senoner between autumn 2025 and spring 2026, following from the ground up the most logical and obvious line of the wall.
The name Carmaia combines the names Camilla, Gaia, Mara and Armin and is a tribute to the most important people in the first ascensionist’s life.
The route is approximately 250 metres long on generally compact Dolomite rock and offers varied and sustained climbing with athletic moves, technical sections and beautiful vertical pitches. Although opened in traditional style, the line follows a natural and intuitive path throughout the wall.
The route is protected mainly with traditional pitons, while all belays are equipped with glued ring anchors. The setting is particularly impressive and offers magnificent views over Vallunga and the surrounding mountains.
Technical Information
Name: Via Carmaia
Opened by: Armin Senoner
Opening period: Autumn 2025 – Spring 2026
Location: Vallunga, Val Gardena (BZ) – Ciampanil de Val
Length: 250 m – 8 pitches
Maximum difficulty: VIII- (VII/A0) / 7A
Protection: Traditional pitons
Belays: Glued ring anchors
Aspect: East
Recommended equipment: 14 quickdraws, 1 x 60 m rope or 2 x 50 m ropes
Approach: From the Vallunga parking area, follow the trail towards Ciampanil de Val. The base of the wall is reached in about 20 minutes. The route starts on the same wall as Via Gaia and Via Camilla, immediately left of Via Gaia.
Descent: Rappel down the equipped abseil line of Ciampanil de Val. Descent is possible with either one 60 m rope or two 50 m ropes.
Route MagicSucks – Monte Steviola (West Face)
First ascent: Armin Senoner
Location: Vallunga – Selva di Val Gardena
Length: approx. 155 m
Pitches: 6
Difficulty: up to 7b
Protection: 10 mm bolts
Belays: resin ring + bolt
Gear: single rope 60 m, 16 quickdraws
Exposure: South-West
Best season: autumn and winter
Description
A beautiful new sport route on the west face of Monte Steviola, featuring six sustained pitches on compact limestone with pockets and edges.
Fully bolted with 10 mm bolts, solid belays equipped with resin rings and bolts. Technical, precise and continuous climbing.
Approach
From Selva di Val Gardena, drive into the Vallunga and park (fee required).
Follow the Via Crucis – Kreuzweg path; shortly before reaching Ciastel Wolkenstein, turn left and follow small cairns and traces leading to the base of the wall.
Approach time: 20–25 minutes.
Descent
Either abseil down the route (reclip the steeper sections) or walk down via the hunters’ path.
Pitches
P1: 6c+ (30 m)
P2: 6a (25 m)
P3: 7a+ (30 m)
P4: 7a+ (25 m)
P5: 7b (20 m)
P6: 6a (25 m)
